Step 2 - Plan out Your Design.
We designed a bathroom that would hold a small litter box with some extra space along the side.  We used the existing two walls and added two more, a back piece and side piece, to enclose the litter box.  On the side wall we added a vent for air circulation.  As far as access, we created two entrances; one for the cat and the other for us to remove the litter box for cleaning/changing.  For the cat, we used a PetSafe Extreme Weather Energy Efficent Pet Door (Small) ​ and for us we added a cabinet door that hinges open from the bottom.

​​Was Wanda always this hot and loud? We asked ourselves this during our maiden voyage.  By removing the carpet and installing vinyl planks we inadvertently created a much louder and uncomfortable driving environment in the cab.  We noticed that when we accelerated or climbed a hill Wanda was significantly louder and you could feel the vibrations of the Ford V10 powering past 3200 RPMs.  On a longer drive, the floors also became very hot, particularly on the passenger side.  We didn't realize how well the carpet had absorbed the heat and dampened the sound. 

We knew we had to address this issue and come up with a solution that would allow for a quieter ride and protect our and the pets feet from the burning floors.  Since the new flooring was already installed, we also needed a product that we could install from underneath the RV and around the engine, which meant it had to be waterproof and hold up against the wear and tear of the road.  After doing some research, we decided to use Noico Solutions Green 170 Waterproof Sound and Heat Insulation. This closed cell foam sound deadening material is easy to cut, handle and install.  This product worked out perfectly for us. It decreased the decibels reading from 87db to 67db. That's a big improvement. It also made the floor temperature a lot cooler and reduced the vibration.  

The box comes with 36 square feet. Each panel is 15.7 x 9.8 inches and there are 34 sheets.  It essentially looks like giant foam stickers.  

Installing the Insulation

Dog House Cover
I started here. It’s easier to work with since it's removable and I wanted to see how the installation went before I was crawling under the wheel well in a tight space.   

Flip the doghouse cover upside down and pre-plan how you want to lay the insulation. I used as many full size pieces as I could.   Remove the backing of the insulation like a sticker and place the sheet in its proper place and press it down. The glue is sticky but very manageable and can be pulled off if you make a mistake before rolling it.   The material is very flexible and forgiving, so mold it into the contours of the dogs house cover. When you get to the edges, lay a piece down that goes  further than the edge and use a razor blade to follow the edge and make a flush cut. Continue this for all the edges. Use cut offs if you can and save the full size pieces for under the wheel well.

​Next, use the roller and apply pressure to every square inch of the insulation. You want to ensure a proper bond and the more you roll the better. I went over each piece 4 to 5 times especially around the edges. 

​Under The Wheel Well

This is a lot easier with two people.  It can certainly be done on  your own, it will just take longer. At first I did this by myself but it wasted a lot of time squeezing myself under the wheel well to measure pieces, climbing out of the wheel well, cutting the pieces, going back under, sticking them on and then rolling each piece.  To save time, you can do all your measuring at once and then all your cutting at once. Just make sure you label the pieces so you can identify which piece goes where. Or have one person in the wheel well and one person cutting. 

As far as location and where to install the insulation, I placed it underneath the floor around the engine. I covered everything that I could physically reach. I then recruited my wife who is a lot smaller than me to climb into some of the smaller and tighter spaces.  We made sure to stay away from moving parts and avoided placing it directly on mechanical parts like the exhaust. 

Generator Bay

We had some extra sheets, so we decided to insulate the generator bay as well.  We don't like to run the generator much because we don't like disturbing other campers but sometimes, when there is too much tree cover for the solar we have to.  We installed the Noico Solutions Green 170 Waterproof Sound and Heat Insulation in the bay to absorb some of the noise.  The decibels from 10 feet away before adding the ??? was 63 db.  After installing the insulation was 56 db.

Have any questions? Or do you also have hot feet? Let us know know in the comments below!

By Kevin Quiambao
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If you are looking to update your kitchen but are on tight budget, consider refacing your cabinets.  We have found that painting and refinishing the cabinetry makes a tremendous difference in how a kitchen looks and feels.  You really can be bold and make a statement with a pop of color.  While it is time consuming, it is a relatively easy and inexpensive project to undertake yourself.  
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The kitchen cabinets was one of our first projects we tackled in our old house and we absolutely loved how they came out.  Our style is a mix of farmhouse/rustic/cottage and we were able to incorporate our style perfectly by painting and distressing the cabinets.  So we decided to do it again in Wanda. 

We followed the same process for the oak cabinets we had in the house and on the cabinets in Wanda (wood fronts with veneer frame) with one caveat.  The kitchen cabinets in the house were in real bad shape and had a very thick layer of grime and grease on them, so before we started we had to use a degreaser and scrape them, which was definitely as gross as it sounds. 

Lets get started!

​Step 1: Dissassemble the cabinets
Remove all of the hardware (hinges and handles/drawer pulls) and take off all of the cabinet doors.  If you are reusing the hardware, keep all of the pieces together so nothing gets lost.  If you dont like the color or finish of the hardware, you can spray paint them (more on that later).

​Step 2: Sand
Our advice would be to invest in a decent palm sander. We use a Makita B0530K 5 inch Random Orbit Sander.  It will save you a lot of time!  You need to sand everything to get the prior finish off the cabinets so the cabinets will absorb the new paint.  For this step we use a 60-80 grit sand paper.  Try to remove all the prior color or stain and go down to the bare wood.  

Tip: Wear a mask to avoid breathing in all the dust.

Step 3: Prime 
Set up an assembly line outside, in your driveway whereever you can really spread out and start priming the doors and drawers.  We used Rust-Oleum 2004 Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer, 1 Quart, 946 ml, White  When one side is done, head inside and start priming the frame.  By the time you are done inside, you should be able to prime the other side of the doors and drawers.

Step 4: Paint 
Really let the prime set and dry before you start painting.  We let the cabinets sit overnight before we started painting.  

As far as the paint, make sure you use kitchen/bath paint for the cabinets, it is a specific kind of interior paint with stain blocking properties in a satin sheen.  For Wandas cabinets we used Behr Premium Plus Ultra with a Satin Enamel finish.

You will need to paint two coats on everything.  We used paint brushes for the trim and hard to reach spots and a roller for everything else.  Make sure the paint fully dries and cures before doing the second coat, otherwise you will pull paint off as you are trying to paint another coat. 
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Hinges/Hardware: if you don't mind the style of your door handles or the drawer pulls but the color/finish isn't great try to spray paint them. Our hardware was originally a satin nickel finish which we were not wild about, so we used Rustoleum Universal All Surface Metalic Oil Rubbed Bronze Spray Paint.  After a few coats they were as good as new. 

Step 5: Distress (If a distressed look is not your thing skip to Step 6)
We like the look of distressed furniture, we distress pretty much everything we build or redo, it is kind of an obsession.  To get a distressed look on cabinets, you do need to sand by hand which warning you now,  is a tedious process but definitely worth it.  We typically use a 220 grit sand paper (although we used 100 in certain stubborn spots) and fold it into a pretty small piece.  We start with the frame and try to sand down where normal wear and tear would appear, near the edges or seams.  Try to sand the top paint color off completely while allowing some of the white primer to come through and some smaller spots of bare wood.  

​There is no rhyme or reason to how we do this, we don't plan ahead but just go for it and sand what we feel like without doing too much because in this instance, less is more.  Once the frame is done, work on distressing the cabinet doors and drawers.   To make sure the spots are spread out, lay the doors/drawers out  in front of the frame and mark where you want to sand.  That way you avoid having too much next to each other.  

     Tip: Don't forget to wear gloves for this step or the sandpaper will rub your fingers raw. ​

Step 6: Apply Polycrylic 
After the paint has dried you will need to finish the cabinetry with Poly.  This will give you a nice smooth finish and protects the cabinets from water, stains, heat and wear and tear.  We like this Minwax Polycrylic in a clear satin finish.  It looks like elmers glue but it dries completely clear.  Use a good quality bristle brush to apply this.  Poly is not like regular paint, you do not want to put a thick coat on, you want to apply it thinly and evenly.  
After the first coat dries, you will notice a rough texture.  You need to lightly sand the cabinets, with a 220 grit sandpaper until it is smooth.  After sanding brush the dust off and use a tack cloth to make sure the surface is completely clean.  You will then have to repeat this process by applying another thin coat of poly and light sand. 

Step 7: Reinstall all cabinet doors and hardware

​If you decide to try out this technique, send us some pictures we would love to see how your cabinets turn out!

We could fix that. Our requirements for this build:

• K.I.S.S (Keep it simple stupid)
• Keep it small and not in the way when you enter and exit the driver and passenger seat
• The center console has to be able to be removed quickly to access the dog house (Engine Cover)
• Hold a variety of cups and glasses
• Have additional storage for sunglasses, pocket knife, and secrete compartment.
• Cheap

The original center console was attached to the dashboard by a metal square tube that was 3 feet long. The cup holders were plastic but had a metal frame underneath for support.  We decided to reuse these pieces in our new console.  We used the metal tube to extend the box out about a foot and provide support and used the metal frame for two of the new cup holders.

For the finish, we gave it a light sand, and used a stain and poly combo.  As far as assembly, we used 90 degree brackets to hold the pieces in place from the inside to avoid any screws or hardware from showing on the outside.  

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Six years ago, we took on the biggest challenge of our relationship and a different kind of adventure, purchasing a disaster of a house and renovating every single inch of it.  Looking back at the pictures of the beginning and all the stages of renovations our house underwent, I am unbelievably proud of us and completely shocked at what we (along with plenty of help from our families) managed to accomplish. 

​When we decided we wanted to live together, we agreed that buying a house would be a better investment but at that point in our lives, me freshly out of law school with a mountain of student loans and Kevin struggling to pay off his own debt, our options were pretty limited.  It seemed we could only really afford a fixer upper.  I grew up in a very handy family, my father is a contractor who handled the major construction and the rest of it, we planned to figure out along the way. ​

So, we searched for the worst house we could find, and boy did we really go for it.  When we walked into 633 S. 4th St it was a wreck, it had been abandoned, it was in a state of ruin, filthy, hideous, stripped of all the piping and electric, had a huge hole in the roof, water damage, a dilapidated barn in the backyard and a couple of free floating 2x4’s wedged in the basement holding the house up.  And despite all of that, which would probably send most people running in the other direction, it felt like home from the moment we walked in. ​

We are both excited about starting over with Wanda and already have plenty of ideas.  So, stay tuned for what we come up with! ​